What Now?

Detty December: the phenomenon that has become increasingly popular in recent years where diasporans flock to Lagos (and now other major African cities) for a month of non-stop enjoyment. 

2019 was Ghana’s “Year of the Return” and arguably a turning point for Detty December across the entire continent. Then COVID hit. Thanks to the pandemic, I was not able to return “back home” in 2020 or 2021 after four consecutive Christmases in Lagos. But this year, I finally returned. 

In hindsight, I realise I went back home with little to no expectations except to enjoy in the same way I always see my Lagosian friends enjoying. My last December in Lagos was 2019 and I had a blast with my friends & sisters and made a bunch of new friends too, so I guess that was the only other expectation I had. 

Boy, did I enjoy myself. One very important thing to note is the difference in the partying culture back home in comparison to the UK. One of my major issues with London nightlife is the fact that clubs close at 3AM, and unless you want McDonalds or VQ there aren’t really many food options after a night out. 

In many clubs in Lagos, not only is there food in the club but you can also find some spots to pick up a late night snack. My personal favourite was Jays Diner, which opened at 6PM and closed at 5AM. Here you have a choice of different types of hot dogs, wings and pastas with the option to walk up to the diner or get car service. 

And there’s none of that 3AM finish nonsense, except for W Bar which closes at 2AM but more often than not is usually just the start of a long night of club hopping. 

I discovered this on my first night out, my second night in Lagos. My friend invited me to W Bar. The waterfront bar/lounge/club is one I had heard about before I got to Lagos, so I added it to my list of places to visit. I was certainly not disappointed. The DJ was playing great music and despite being upstairs and away from the rest of the club goers, the vibe at the table was great. 

When we got there she mentioned telling the driver to wait around to take us to the next spot. That’s when I knew I hadn’t been in Lagos for a while and I was in for a wild ride. That night, we went to four different clubs, including the newest hotspot ‘Hot Box’, which opens at 2AM. 

The appropriately named Hot Box was a popular hotspot this December. For anyone that wanted to go celebrity spotting, Hot Box was the place to do it. Unfortunately, I wrote the club off my first time there, after the bass nearly deafened me. The atmosphere featured a signature red light (likely an allusion to it being ‘hot’) and a very packed room. It is most definitely a hot box. I returned one more time and ended up having an even worse experience. 

While I didn’t have the best time there, I can understand why some people would love Hot Box. The DJ lineups are great and it pulls a vibey and vibrant crowd. For anyone wanting to go, I would recommend getting there at the opening time, as the process of getting in can get long and extremely irritating. 

Prior to Hot Box, we stopped off at Envy. Unfortunately, we ended up not getting to go inside before we had to leave for Hot Box. But I was back there three more times and thoroughly enjoyed myself the second time round. The music was great, drinks were flowing and I went with a good crowd of people. I would definitely recommend this club, but make sure you’re with really fun people. 

The second stop before Envy and after W Bar was Zaza. Zaza is an upscale restaurant that turns into a club at night. If you’re from London, think Sumosan Twiga. The incredible party spot cuts across generations; my aunty and cousin both loved it and chose it as one of their favourite spots for a night out. I also had a great time there the two times I went. 

An honourable mention in the clubbing conversation is Pluto, which I didn’t go to on my first night but did end up at twice during my stay in Lagos. The first thing that caught my eye was a neon light sign that read “What happens in Pluto stays in Pluto”. I liked the blue lighting in the club and the music was also as good as other clubs. 

Something I ought to mention when noting how different clubbing in the UK and Nigeria are is the fact that alcohol is not the only substance available. It wasn’t shocking for me to see people smoking in the club, because I’ve been out in Nigeria so I know this is a regular thing. Even the shisha pipes weren’t shocking due to the table/section culture. What did take me aback was the availability of “smartwhip” for sale, also known as laughing gas. 

On a regular night with an event (special shoutout to Gidi Cruise, Copacabana and DLT), a club was how to end the night. It’s like going to a day party then hitting up the club after. Except that you would get to said “day party” any time between 10PM and 1AM and leave for the club anytime between 2AM and 4AM. 

On an average night out, I would be getting back home by 6AM, 7AM if I was pushing it. It wasn’t anything like Accra where those party animals are raving while the sun has already risen, but it was definitely very different from what I’m used to in London. 

But the late nights (or early mornings) weren’t my favourite part of the non-stop enjoyment. It was the music. Anyone that knows me well knows about my deep love for Afrobeats, and recent love for Amapiano. I cannot begin to describe the joy that comes with hearing all your favourite songs and discovering new ones in the club. I even made a playlist with all my favourite songs I heard nearly every night. 

I drank way too much alcohol, met a bunch of really cool people, danced into the morning multiple times and surpassed my expectations of enjoyment. I was even hoping for a flight cancellation, or to miss my flight so I could stay for a little bit longer. But unfortunately, all good things must come to an end.

So what now? Well prior to going I wasn’t 100% sure if I wanted to continue the December in Lagos tradition. But now I am sure I want to spend at least one more December in one of my favourite cities in the world. 

I learnt a lot about how much fun you can have with the right combination of people, and how just the wrong combination of people can throw everything off. This will make me a lot more selective of the outings I choose to go on this year. I also realised how much I hate UK nightlife, and do not plan on engaging in it much this year. 

But the most important lesson of all was the importance of having fun while also prioritising rest. I had a blast but admittedly overdid it a little bit. I ended the trip with a terrible flu and have been recovering over the past few days. So this year I will aim to find a perfect balance of work, play and rest. 

Here’s to a fun and restful 2023. 

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